February 12, 2025
Sailing the Columbia River and Back Waters, From Astoria to Portland

Three times up the Columbia River

Forged off from Astoria, OR (river mile 15)

I have no want to aspiration about far off exotic ports that I may well under no circumstances see due to the fact to start with I’m going to investigate my personal back again property, so to communicate. We arranged for our son to travel with us to the coastline. The plan was to trailer the sailboat to Astoria and he would bring the trailer back empty, leaving the three of us to fend for ourselves and locate our way upriver to our property moorage. The boat ramp at Astoria is practical and effectively made, but the pre-launch space is portion gravel parking good deal and aspect muddy discipline. We parked in the vicinity of an additional sailboat crew that was chaotic stepping their mast and rigging the boat. Because of the mud and gravel I made a decision we would get on off the boat as very little as doable although having prepared, so I advised my 10 12 months outdated to go participate in on the docks and consider to remain absent from the Sea Lions that experienced taken around one overall float. The Sea Lions are so large and crowded that the float is listing and partially submerged. These are some of the identical critters that will shortly swim the 130 or so miles up river to Bonneville Dam, where by they will feast on returning Salmon that pool down below the dam.

Although rigging the boat, I can listen to the group upcoming to us getting instruction from their skipper. I hope I will not audio like that. In a minimal above an hour were prepared to back again down the ramp and transform our boat free. Launching goes off without the need of a hitch, minutes later on we are on our way, I turn and check out lengthy enough to see our son turn the suitable way in direction of dwelling. He is on his possess and so are we. We quietly float earlier the Sea Lions they ignore us as we motor out into the river. Not hint of wind as we stage ourselves up stream. The river is sleek and flat we are about ten miles from the ocean. Other than the soaring tide you would not know we at the edge of the biggest ocean in the world. The Columbia is about 4 miles large at Astoria, with a lot of sand bars, and mud flats. There are two navigation channels going up river, a single is the main channel the place the ships going to Portland need to work or operate aground. The other is navigable by tiny boats and meanders behind grassy islands alongside the Oregon side. We are not oriented yet we have our chart, but do not know exactly where we are, so I place us towards what appears like a possible channel with some type of markers in the length. We wave to the other sailboat as they go by heading for the principal channel. I speculate if they believe ended up dropped. We journey about a few of four miles and working with the binoculars try to place a variety someplace that we can find on the chart. I however don’t know in which we really should be heading but I have been finding out the shore and don’t imagine we are any exactly where in the vicinity of where the channel goes. Just simply because the charts lists an Island and you can see an Island won’t mean your boat belongs future to an Island. I think the river is much more like 10 miles vast now, so it is simple to get baffled. I am starting to desire we had not remaining the dock with out a improved program than head east and see where you go. We last but not least are near enough to positively detect a marker and know we are heading into a dead stop. I transform class and slash throughout an location that the chart exhibits as owning only a single foot of h2o at suggest small small tide. Our depth sounder states about 8 ft are beneath us, but I’m really anxious considering the fact that our keel is down about six toes. Jogging aground isn’t the only stress, managing into a deadhead or submerged piling is a extremely serious probability, and a very good purpose to go gradual.

In limited purchase as we get near to the Oregon shore we location some markers that correspond to our chart and eventually know exactly where we are. The wind picks up a minor and we are sailing, I destroy the motor and appreciate the silence. I would not describe the see as stunning but it is incredibly exciting and not at all dull. Birds of class are in all places, the ever-current Herons are about each and every corner standing completely still striving to search invisible, and when they get flight, they search positively prehistoric. You are unable to sail the Columbia with out looking at hundreds of Osprey and their nests, they feel to own each piling or navigation help at any time built. The squawking younger types are as huge as their dad and mom and need to be fed non stop. We poke our bow into backwaters and coves that appear to be interesting, sometimes we place deer but extra normally cows. It is astonishing that we learn buildings out in this area that seriously is just a handful of feet above the water. Most are shacks left over from a lot more prosperous situations on the river, but some are really sizeable and have rotten previous docks, a couple of are occupied. When we get shut plenty of to see that another person may be living there, you all of a sudden feel like your trespassing and promptly change away. The wind is extremely spotty, from time to time we are not transferring at all. I feel we have operate aground and request if anyone thinks we have stopped moving, Jaiden is confident we are nevertheless relocating because he can see the recent flowing around the boat. I have lined up on shore two trees and can convey to we are stopped (caught in the mud) I perform the guessing game awhile longer and ultimately announce that somebody will have to crank up the keel or we will be stuck all day. No a single moves, Linda is looking through, and Jaiden is out on the bow. I climb into the cabin and transform the winch deal with 1 comprehensive switch then view the trees, practically nothing, a different complete switch and have been free of charge, sailing once more, 1 with the wind, charging versus the present of the mighty Columbia river. Oops, anyone demands to steer soon, or I will be cranking the keel up even additional. We have been steering by way of these slender waterways for numerous hrs and thanks to occasional markers, we know exactly in which we are. We have a GPS with us but utilizing the chart would seem additional acceptable and pleasurable. I bear in mind to crank the keel back down, it is really reassuring knowing we can alter our draft from six toes to a few feet when essential.

As the sun is heading west the wind picks up and we are sailing very well. We apparent the past of the islands and make for the principal channel, I believe the port of Cathlamet is just around the following corner and positive adequate soon a forest of boat masts and a breakwater occur into look at.

Cathlamet, WA (river mile 40)

I hate to just take the sails down, we seriously haven’t had very fantastic sailing until eventually the last hour and I you should not want to quit. Quickly we are motoring into the moorage there are rather a several persons all over, a several wave, and quite a few kayakers. Just previous the gas dock, I place a portion of open dock, and smartly glide into a house correct powering the sailboat that followed us out of Astoria. We trade niceties as if were being aged friends, they mention they’ve been there for hours, what a wonderful sail. What took place to us? I convey to them we went powering all the islands, had a fantastic time, did not use the motor right up until we essential to fall sail and motor into the moorage. That reminds me, want to check the gas, and may well have to fill up before we go away tomorrow. Our new mates stated they were being remaining the future night time at the Longview yacht club. I imagined to myself, I failed to know Longview experienced a marina or moorage, how can they have a club. Cathlamet has a terrific very little moorage, and a active position. We ran into an previous acquaintance kayak tenting. They provide tenting, transient moorage or year all over. The moorage is pretty much shielded from ship site visitors, you can find a boat ramp and fuel dock. It is just a 1 block wander into town exactly where there is certainly a few dining establishments and suppliers for procuring. We arrived early enough that we could tour town and get back to the boat to make supper before darkish. In the early morning immediately after a leisurely espresso and breakfast, we motored into a neat small channel at the rear of an Island on the Washington facet. There was a lot of proof of old logging operations the place they dealt with log rafts. We smacked into a little something two feet down below the area and discovered a row or submerged pilings. Just after a short way the waterway shoaled all the way across and compelled us to convert all over, leaving the checking out to kayakers. The place we cleared into the major river is Puget Island, the Island is served by bridge from the Washington facet and by ferryboat from the Oregon facet. As we proceeded up river the ferry arrived across in entrance of us so we ducked into the slough the ferry came out of and waited for its return vacation. I really don’t know whom was a lot more amusing the ferry passengers seeking at us or us staring again at them. So much today we have built virtually no progress up river and by now killed a few several hours. No wind once more, just like yesterday so we settle into a monotonous 4 mph rest inducing grind. On the Washington aspect, we go by some stunning substantial cliffs. I look at my maps and obtain the names Eagle cliffs, Bunker Hill, Oak Place. In Oregon we see mainly lowland and certain adequate very soon we appear to yet another probable island waterway to investigate. Following examining the chart I determine that there is certainly enough depth all the way through and change the bow in the direction of Oregon once yet again. In minutes, the primary river is historical past and we are yet again surrounded by nature. Somehow, 4mph appears to be like we are racing via, even staying disrespectful utilizing a noisy outboard motor. I slash the motor velocity to just a speedy idle and view the shoreline slip by. At some point we appear to the proverbial fork in street and right after checking the chart head into the remaining passage. It truly is not incredibly long right before “bump”and we are tough aground, no warning at all. The depth went from fifteen feet to a few feet in fifty percent a boat length. We cost-free ourselves and go around about 20 toes and do it yet again, and once more, and arrrrgain. About now, I see some individuals on shore more than on the other channel. They are waving at us to use the other channel around by them. I am reluctant to heed their waves due to the fact my up to date recent chart suggests to go this way if we at any time expect to see the Columbia River again. We totally free ourselves one last time and motor towards our saviors. They are standing on their private dock a tiny amused. They notify us that the charts have been wrong for twenty 5 a long time, and all we need to have to do is keep to the proper from in this article on and we will have plenty of depth all the way back to the main river. Ah area information what would we do with out it.

The wind arrives up all over again and we aren’t transferring slowly but surely any more. Devoid of the motor functioning, I no for a longer time sense disrespectful as we rip alongside virtually in silence. Even though we are likely up river we are sailing downwind, so we have the motion of the boat slicing via the water and we are moving with the wind so it is extremely relaxed with not much obvious wind on board. We are nearing Longview and the wind has picked up a large amount. We are sailing on a broad get to most of the time and no for a longer period sailing straight up the center of the river. I am selecting headings to continue to keep the boat under command and at ease, (not heeling toooo substantially) otherwise my crew might mutiny and hardly ever go sailing with me once again. We fly by Rainer and Longview. Rainer has a great more recent visitor dock we have used the evening at various periods, and the town has a pizza place. I scan the shore at Longview. I nevertheless haven’t viewed a moorage or marina or even a river to cover in, permit on your own a yacht club. All I see is a big mill of some sort. It is starting up to get darkish and my hopes of making it to St Helens are starting to fade with the daylight. I am definitely torn right now. Go on or change again to Rainer? The wind is shifting us speedier than at any time but it’s finding dark even more quickly. If I push on and the wind dies, we’ll be in for a very long motor trip. If we continue to keep heading and strike a thing at this pace, it could be a important dilemma. In the darkish I wont be ready to get in close proximity to shore for fear of grounding and my length notion is almost long gone along with the light. Of study course, my crew would not know my views, they just want to go in the cabin to get warm and come across evening meal. I press on one particular issue trumps all other individuals tonight. I am having a excellent sail and never want it to close. When I gaze forward attempting to make out just about anything that will not belong in the h2o, I see some industrial lights along shore.

Kalama, WA (river mile 75)
We are approaching Kalama. In about 5 miles I drop the sails and we motor into the moorage. The boat basin is powering a substantial dyke, fully guarded from the wakes of passing ships.. I’m hoping Kalama has transient moorage. The workplace is shut so its up to us to obtain a position to tie up for the evening. We have been below ahead of to get gas, but have in no way been further than the entrance. I admire the numerous boats. Powerboats are generally below go over, each individual slip like a own garage. The sailboats all have tall masts so wont in good shape under deal with, they are mainly at the stop of docks the place there are no roofs. Just about every parking spot has it possess light and power plug, near by are drinking water spigots. The foot ramps top to the docks have locking gates with safety programs. At the time you go out one of these doors and it slams at the rear of you, having again inside is difficult devoid of going for a swim. We will need to make positive not to get ourselves locked out. It really is dim but with the marina lights we have no difficulty earning our way safely and securely. I location what I’ve been seeking for, a sign with an arrow pointing to Guest Moorage. The guest places are at the quite finish, about one particular hundred feet of open dock is selected for attendees so we pull in at the quite close trying to get as near to the foot ramp as probable. There is a huge quantity of floating particles in the water next to the dock, seemingly the regional wind and currents induce all this flotsam to gather listed here as a welcome mat for readers. Some of the driftwood and logs are fifteen ft prolonged and twelve inches in diameter. I momentarily put a foot on a person as I tie up the boat, massive slip-up, I should know greater. In a heartbeat, I could be in the drinking water and trapped below this mess. We are all hungry and foodstuff has been a major subject matter of dialogue, so we head up the ramp and are on our way to city. The guest dock is exterior the security gate so we will be ready to arrive and go as we make sure you.

Downtown Kalama is basically on the other aspect of the interstate, so all we need do is stroll about the railroad mainline by means of a sky bridge walkway and then below the freeway by means of the highway tunnel and then we pop out onto the principal road, wander about a single block to the neighborhood incredibly hot evening location with a signal advertising pizza. It will have to be Saturday night since on the other side of the doorway marked “NO MINORS” are a lot of loud celebration-goers. We are typically by ourselves in the relatives area. The stroll again to the boat is windy and chilly, snooze comes easy tonight. Breakfast and espresso in the sunshine, the wind is mild. It appears to be like the commencing of a nice working day. In the daylight we can see what a mess we have parked in, the flotsam covers the whole conclude of the basin and the visitor docks, are currently being swallowed, one dock is completely useless. As we pull out, I need to be mindful not to destruction our propeller or rudder. As soon as apparent of the marina we can see the city park with its tall totem poles, a sight we skipped in the darkish. Kalama is at river mile 75, soon after the superior aspect of two times on the drinking water I am experience at property, but I feel my crew needs to be at property. I suggest we make for St Helens and have Ice cream at a small shop a short stroll from the general public dock. Miraculously spirits are lifted. Motor sailing now, among light winds and the quietly purring motor, the boat is building great velocity. We are tacking back again and forth hoping to make best use of shifty winds. The occasional ship chases us from mid channel and retains us inform. Not at all like the backwaters all over islands in which the biggest commotion is a juvenile Osprey demanding to be fed.

St Helens, OR (river mile 86)
Sand Island is directly offshore of St Helens and (nearly) shields the local community from passing ship wakes. The city has a potent boating dedication and maintains totally free community docks on both the mainland and Sand Island. All through the summer season, there is a totally free shuttle boat to the island, making it straightforward for a boater to tie up on the island and still go into town.
The passage among the mainland and Sand Island is narrow and has a powerful present earning docking on both aspect a entire consideration all crew on deck maneuver. On a person visit, in this article we found out the challenging way, an aged submerged piling appropriate next to the dock. The docks are seriously awesome, onshore is a little town park finish with gazebo and a modest grassy amphitheater. Hot and chilly showers in the bogs (everything is free of charge) make St Helens a single of my favored cruising destinations. We tromp up the ramp heading for the Ice cream and Gelato store. Not in any hurry to go away, we expend some time at the small park in front of town corridor where they have a nice foot route depicting Lewis and Clarks exploration. This is a really worthwhile place to take a look at.

Back again at the waters edge I sit in the gazebo to read while my crew discovers a river otter enjoying beneath the ramp float. A city staff displays up dressed in a spiffy uniform and promptly gathers what little litter there is and just as quickly is long gone. Finally we obtain at the boat and cast off, the key river is just a couple of minutes absent. At this level boaters have a main preference of routes, the principal river is shortest and swiftest no question, but much more picturesque, calming, and off the beaten path is Multnomah Channel. Sauvies Island on the Oregon aspect is about 15 miles prolonged, and following Multnomah Channel close to the island to the Willamette River and again to the Columbia is about 24 miles. On this vacation, I have been seeking to investigate a very little slough on the Washington side so we stay on the Columbia. Shortly we apparent Warrior rock gentle on Sauvie Island and proceed up river preserving a sharp enjoy for professional targeted traffic, and from time to time glancing at the depth sounder. Working aground is not a important problem and our swing keel is really forgiving, but its not any additional seamanlike managing into matters in your boat than is becoming a superior driver and hitting parked vehicles with rubber bumpers.

Sauvie Island has a notorious and preferred nude beach front and before long we cruise by, it is really really hard to see very well with the binoculars bouncing all over from the waves. Again on the Washington side, I’m wanting for the mouth of a slough that I come across on my chart but have never explored. In accordance to what I have browse there is a houseboat local community nestled driving a tiny island. I location a smaller runabout coming from shore and alter course to look into absolutely sure enough, a small opening presents itself. Sails down and motoring very sluggish we cautiously approach, I know from past practical experience that islands extend underwater for a prolonged techniques and we need to have to find a channel to safely and securely enter. From hundreds of many years of industrial use I anticipate the river to have rotten aged pilings just about wherever and almost everywhere. I question Jaiden to watch carefully from the bow. With one particular eye on the depth sounder, we bravely forge ahead. A thousand feet in we go by a boat ramp, which I suppose, is the place the runabout had occur from. We are down to about 6 ft, so I crank up the keel a small and continue to keep going. We can see the houseboats now it appears like about a dozen. A number of have boats tied up, 1 is a big sailboat. and we appear to a stop again. The gauge reads 4 feet, I am hesitant to raise the keel anymore, we are having near to exactly where the rudder could hit and not only do some injury but we could get stuck. I carry the keel a different switch and reverse class, remaining absolutely sure to totally lower the keel when we crystal clear the island and go on up the Columbia. I am not offering up, that major sailboat experienced to come in in the course of better h2o and so could we, or upcoming time we have the dinghy with us, we can anchor and dinghy the very last mile. That will be an additional trip, another working day. There’s not a lot to see on either aspect but very low financial institutions or sandy shorelines, Sauvies Island sports the occasional million dollar estate but Washington has some also.

As we solution the Portland and Vancouver space boat targeted visitors boosts, additionally there are ships anchored. I realized decades in the past to continue to be absent from parked ships when I tangled my mast with a fishing line a crewman had over the facet. Nowadays safety is a major challenge, so we remain distinct of ships. The Willamette River flows into the Columbia at the top rated of Sauvies Island and generates a standing wave appropriate at the junction. Boaters have a tendency to minimize this corner shut and from time to time are rewarded with a wall of drinking water in excess of their bow. We keep on on previous far more anchored ships and quickly are reverse Hayden Island, House to Jantzen Beach procuring heart and where by interstate five crosses the Columbia River. Our moorage basin is carved out of Hayden Island and the entrance is on the Columbia side of the island so we continue to be in the primary channel the rest of our vacation. The final challenge we ought to conquer is the railroad bridge, at substantial drinking water the attract span need to swing open to let our mast clearance. 1 trip I bear in mind waiting around two hours to pass by, we arrived in the daytime and finally cleared the span immediately after dim. This day the water is very low and our present boat blessed with a limited adhere (measurement does subject) slips beneath, 30 minutes later on we are safely and securely in our slip at Hayden Bay. Previously on our way to Astoria, we had remaining our car or truck in the parking large amount, so it was ready for us to travel dwelling. This was a great trip, I strategy to do it again sometime bringing my inflatable kayak or dinghy to explore the locations I skipped.

Hayden Bay, Portland, OR (river mile 107)
John